hardware:venta_connected
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hardware:venta_connected [2018/10/13 11:41] – reinhold | hardware:venta_connected [2018/10/14 00:09] – reinhold | ||
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====== Adding WiFi-control to a Venta LW45 humidifier ====== | ====== Adding WiFi-control to a Venta LW45 humidifier ====== | ||
- | ===== Why adding WiFi to a traditional humidifier ===== | + | ===== 1. Why adding WiFi to a traditional humidifier ===== |
- | In our appartment, we are using a Venta LW45 air humidifier during the winter to increase air humidity to acceptable levels. These humidifiers follow a very simple principle: Several rotating disks are put into the water and a ventilator blows air through the device. The humidifier has three operating levels (1-3) and signals an error if the water reaches a low level. | + | In our appartment, we are using a [[https:// |
{{ : | {{ : | ||
- | Now, since I have ZigBee | + | Since I have ZigBee |
- | ===== Investigating the electronics of the LW45 ===== | + | ===== 2. Investigating the electronics of the LW45 ===== |
Previous versions of the Venta humidifier (LW14, LW24, LW44) are simply using a 220V motor with a manual switch that changes between different resistor values to control the speed of the motor. With their current generation of humidifiers (LW15, LW25 and LW45), the Venta devices control the motor through a microchip-based electronic control board with two buttons to turn the device on/off and to change level by one. | Previous versions of the Venta humidifier (LW14, LW24, LW44) are simply using a 220V motor with a manual switch that changes between different resistor values to control the speed of the motor. With their current generation of humidifiers (LW15, LW25 and LW45), the Venta devices control the motor through a microchip-based electronic control board with two buttons to turn the device on/off and to change level by one. | ||
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{{: | {{: | ||
- | Opening the device shows the main PCB, which is connected to a control panel (with the switches and LEDs visible at the upper side of the humidifier) through a 10-pin IDC flat band cable. The power supply is a 24V external power supply that is plugged into the control panel. The schematics of the control panel is as follows: | + | Opening the device shows the main PCB, which is connected to a control panel (with switches and LEDs visible at the upper side of the humidifier) through a 10-pin IDC flat band cable. The power supply is a 24V external power supply that is plugged into the control panel. The schematics of the control panel is as follows: |
{{ : | {{ : | ||
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* The sensor to detect an opened device is implemented as another button, which again connects to GND when the device is opened. | * The sensor to detect an opened device is implemented as another button, which again connects to GND when the device is opened. | ||
- | ===== How to implement the different parts hardware-wise ===== | + | ===== 3. How to implement the different parts hardware-wise ===== |
Looking at this schematics, it is apparent how a WiFi control can be easily added to the LW45 humidifier: | Looking at this schematics, it is apparent how a WiFi control can be easily added to the LW45 humidifier: | ||
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* To light up the error LED, pin 10 need to be pulled to GND. | * To light up the error LED, pin 10 need to be pulled to GND. | ||
- | All these steps can be easily done by any microcontroller used in smart home applications. The only problem is the power: The VCC is 24V and the levels of the LED pins are potentiall | + | All these steps can be easily done by any microcontroller used in smart home applications. The only problem is the power: The VCC is 24V and the levels of the LED pins are potentially |
- | ==== Power supply: Step-down converter from 24V to 3.3V ==== | + | ==== 3.1 Power supply: Step-down converter from 24V to 3.3V ==== |
- | Initially, I tried a normal LN7805 voltage regulator, but that heated up too much, especially considering that the WiFi-PCB would be placed inside the humidifier inside | + | The Venta LW45 humidified is powered by an external 24V AC power supply, which should |
- | ==== Microcontroller and WiFi connection ==== | + | Initially, I tried a normal LN7805 voltage regulator, but that heated up too much, especially considering that the WiFi-PCB would be placed inside the humidifier inside the plastic enclosure with very little air flow. Instead, I'm using a 24V to 3.3V step-down converter to provide the 3.3V VCC to my own board. |
- | {{ : | + | I do not, however, separate my own circuit with optocouplers from the Venta's circuit. This means that there is some chance that e.g. a broken comparator |
- | So, I switched over to an ESP8266-12F module that is SMD-soldered on the PCB. The ESP needs the usual pull-up resistors on EN, reset and GPIO0 to properly boot as well as the pull-down on GPIO15. To program it, we add the usual two buttons (Reset and boot on the reset and GPIO0) and also add the usual 100nF capacitor between 3V3 and GND near the ESP. | + | |
+ | ==== 3.2 Microcontroller and WiFi connection ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | |||
+ | I switched over to an ESP8266-12F module that is SMD-soldered on the PCB. The ESP needs the usual pull-up resistors on EN, reset and GPIO0 to properly boot as well as the pull-down on GPIO15. To program it, we add the usual two buttons (Reset and boot on the reset and GPIO0) and also add the usual 100nF capacitor between 3V3 and GND near the ESP. | ||
The pull-down R19 and pull-up R17 are dashed, as they are also used as pull-down and pull-up for the power button emuation and the LED 1 detection. | The pull-down R19 and pull-up R17 are dashed, as they are also used as pull-down and pull-up for the power button emuation and the LED 1 detection. | ||
- | ==== Detecting LED status ==== | + | |
+ | ==== 3.3 Detecting LED status ==== | ||
{{ : | {{ : | ||
The output of the comparator is pulled high with a pull-up resistor to prevent a floating state, as the comparators are open collector (i.e. they do not feed any voltage in HIGH state, but pull the output to GND for LOW state => The output can be used for any voltage/ | The output of the comparator is pulled high with a pull-up resistor to prevent a floating state, as the comparators are open collector (i.e. they do not feed any voltage in HIGH state, but pull the output to GND for LOW state => The output can be used for any voltage/ | ||
- | ==== Emulating a button press ==== | + | |
+ | ==== 3.4 Emulating a button press ==== | ||
{{ : | {{ : | ||
- | ==== The full Schematics ==== | + | ==== 3.5 The full Schematics ==== |
Putting all pieces together, the schematics of the PCB looks as following: | Putting all pieces together, the schematics of the PCB looks as following: | ||
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[[/ | [[/ | ||
- | ===== Building a prototype on breadboard ===== | + | The partlist is as follows: |
+ | |||
+ | ^Part ^Description | ||
+ | |C2 |0.1uF capacitor SMD |C0805 | | ||
+ | |J1 |2x5pin boxed header male |2.54mm through-hole| | ||
+ | |J2 |2x5pin female header | ||
+ | |Q1, Q4, Q5 |2N7000 transistor SMD |SOT23| | ||
+ | |R1, R2, R3 |47R resistor SMD | ||
+ | |R4, R5 |1M resistor SMD |R0805| | ||
+ | |R6, R7, R8, R9, (R10), (R13),\\ (R14), R15, R16, (R20), (R21) |10k resistor SMD (some optional) |R0805| | ||
+ | |R18 |470R resistor SMD |R0805| | ||
+ | |SW1, SW3 | ||
+ | |U2 |24V to 3.3V Buck converter |through-hole | | ||
+ | |U3 |LM339 comparator SMD | ||
+ | |U4 |LM393 comparator SMD | ||
+ | |X2 |ESP-12e wlan module and microcontroller (SMD-mounted)|| | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ===== 4. Building a prototype on breadboard ===== | ||
Now that we have designed the schematics of the circuit, let's put them to the test by building a prototye on a breadboard and testing it with the humidifier. Here are some images of the breadboard that I built (in various versions, because the LM339 comparators took too long to arrive, so I temporarily used two resistors voltage dividers instead): | Now that we have designed the schematics of the circuit, let's put them to the test by building a prototye on a breadboard and testing it with the humidifier. Here are some images of the breadboard that I built (in various versions, because the LM339 comparators took too long to arrive, so I temporarily used two resistors voltage dividers instead): | ||
+ | |||
{{: | {{: | ||
And voila: It works perfectly: | And voila: It works perfectly: | ||
- | {{: | + | {{ : |
+ | |||
+ | ===== 5. Designing the PCB ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | The next obvious step is to design a nice PCB to fit into the motor enclosure and produce the final board. | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{: | ||
+ | {{: | ||
+ | |||
+ | The final version of the PCB has not yet arrived, but a previous version (using " | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{: | ||
+ | {{: | ||
+ | {{: | ||
+ | |||
+ | After soldering all components, the PCB can be plugged into the 10-pin IDC connector of the main board of the Venta humidifier, just between the main board and the cable that connects it with the control panel: | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{: | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== 6. Firmware for the ESP8266: ESPEasy ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Since we now have the hardware working, we need some software on the ESP8266 chip to control the Venta LW45 humidifier. Instead of writing a proper control firmware from scratch, I decided it was most comfortable to use the existing [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | The ESPEasy firmware can easily be flashed through a 6-pin FTDI USB to TTL Serial Adapter (3.3V) with the provided FTDI pin holes. I'm using a self-made pogo-pin adapter with spring-loaded pins, so I only have to press the pogo pins to the PCB to upload rather than soldering pin headers. | ||
+ | {{: | ||
+ | |||
+ | To put the ESP into flashing mode, you need to press the reset button, keep it pressed while pressing the PROG button, release the reset button and after a second or so release the PROG button, too. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== 6.1 Configuring ESPEasy: General setup ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Apart from setting up wireless on the ESPEasy, we need to prepare the hardware pins. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Our schematics has six (digital) input pins for detecting power, level and error, and three output pins to emulate a power button press, an up button press and to flash the error LED. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The full list of ESP pins used by our project is: | ||
+ | |||
+ | ^ Pin ^ Purpose ^ In/Output ^ | ||
+ | |GPIO-2 (D4): |Power LED | (digital) INPUT | | ||
+ | |GPIO-0 (D3): |LED level 1 | (digital) INPUT | | ||
+ | |GPIO-4 (D2): |LED level 2 | (digital) INPUT | | ||
+ | |GPIO-5 (D1): |LED level 3 | (digital) INPUT | | ||
+ | |GPIO-13 (D7): |Error LED | (digital) INPUT | | ||
+ | |GPIO-15 (D8): |Power button press | Switch OUTPUT, default LOW | | ||
+ | |GPIO-14 (D5): |Up button press | Switch OUTPUT, default LOW | | ||
+ | |GPIO-12 (D6): |Case open detection | (digital) INPUT | | ||
+ | |GPIO-16 (D0) |Error LED control | ||
+ | |||
+ | As a first step, the " | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ==== 6.2 Configuring ESPEasy: The default way ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Using only the standard plugins of ESPEasy, all digital inputs can be set up as Switches (device type " | ||
+ | |||
+ | Similarly, ESPEasy already provides a way to control generic output to a GPIO: [[https:// | ||
+ | So, to emulate for example a Power button press, one would send the command | ||
+ | Pulse, | ||
+ | to ESPEasy. This command means that GPIO 15 is set to 1 (HIGH) for 100 ms and then reset to the default LOW. For details see the [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ==== 6.3 Configuring ESPEasy (advanced): Writing a dedicated Venta plugin ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | The approach described in the previous paragraph allows to use a stock ESPEasy version on the ESP8266 on the Venta control board. However, it only allows to read out the status of each LED individually, | ||
+ | |||
+ | In my view, while technically the problem is solved, I don't regard direct GPIO-access as user-friendly or suitable to a device that you want to use in daily life. the WAF (wife-acceptance factor) is just too low. I tend to compare the situation with a TV remote. Technically, | ||
+ | |||
+ | So, rather than exposing the state of individual error and information LEDS and exposing GPIOs for switches, I decided to write a dedicated ESPEasy plugin for the venta humidifiers, | ||
+ | * **Report current power status** ON/OFF (technically: | ||
+ | * **Turn device on/off** (technically: | ||
+ | * **Report current level** (technically: | ||
+ | * **Switch to a desired level** (technically: | ||
+ | * **Report Error** (technically: | ||
+ | * Report Case Open (technically: | ||
+ | * Flash or turn on the error LED (technically: | ||
+ | |||
+ | The plugin that I wrote can be found at github and needs to be compiled locally (i.e. it is not part of the stock ESPEasy distribution, | ||
+ | |||
+ | The configuration of the plugin consists mainly of setting the correct GPIO pins: | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | Unless you design your own PCB, the pins shown in this screenshot should be set. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The plugin reports four variables: | ||
+ | * Power: 1 for ON, 0 for OFF | ||
+ | * Level: 1-3 for levels 1-3, 0 for OFF, -1 when error LED is lit | ||
+ | * Error: 1 for Error LED on, 0 for off | ||
+ | * CaseOpen: 1 when case is opened (=> error LED is also on), 0 when case is closed) | ||
+ | |||
+ | To control the humidifier, the following commands are provided: | ||
+ | |||
+ | ^ Command ^ Description ^ Arguments ^ | ||
+ | |'' | ||
+ | |'' | ||
+ | |'' | ||
+ | |'' | ||
+ | |'' | ||
+ | |'' | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== 7. Controlling the Humidifier in OpenHAB ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | I'm using [[http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | To connect the Venta LW45 to OpenHAB, all I had to do was set up some items in an '' | ||
+ | |||
+ | Switch Venta_Power | ||
+ | Number Venta_Level | ||
+ | Switch Venta_Error | ||
+ | |||
+ | The '' | ||
+ | 1=ON | ||
+ | 0=OFF | ||
+ | 1.0=O | ||
+ | 0.0=OFF | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | To control the humidifier, one can now simply use these items in either a sitemap or in a [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | sitemap wohnung label=" | ||
+ | { | ||
+ | Frame item=Temperatur_Wohnzimmer | ||
+ | Switch | ||
+ | Switch | ||
+ | Text item=Venta_Error | ||
+ | } | ||
+ | } | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | |||
+ | In my floorplan SVG, the humidifier looks like this can can be controlled by a simple click on the on/off icons or the level numbers: | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== 8. Downloads ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | I will [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | Here are the most important files for direct access: | ||
+ | * Eagle schematics .sch and board .brd: | ||
+ | * {{ : | ||
+ | * {{ : | ||
+ | * {{ : | ||
+ | * Gerber files: | ||
+ | * {{ : | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== APPENDIX ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | The description of the project above describes the final result of my project, after many detours, dead ends and dead microcontrollers. Here, I want to give some experiences made during the project, as well as some background why I finally made the decisions documented above. | ||
+ | |||
+ | 1. I'm using the LM339 and LM393 dual and quad differential comparators to detect ON-levels of ~20V, because it practically does not allow any current to flow. First I tried a simple voltage divider (even with 1M resistors), but then the LEDs were always slightly lit. Apparently the LEDs used by Venta do not need much current to light up. This is not desired, so I needed some way of detecting a HIGH signal without any current flowing. The comparator seemed like the most obvious case. | ||
+ | |||
+ | 2. There are multiple different voltages all over the board. The Venta itself uses 24V, which we also need to use as the VCC of the comparators (as the input of the non-lit LEDs is usually ~20-21V). The ESP8266 uses 3.3V generated by a step-down buck converter. Finally, the comparator uses a 12V signal (generated by a simple voltage divider) to detect the status of the 21V LED pins. | ||
+ | |||
+ | 3. In the beginning I used traditional 2N2222 and 2N3904 NPN transistors with an appropriate base resistor. This caused some issued during startup (when the venta was plugged into the wall socket), so I switched to FET transistors with a pull-down to ensure that during startup no button press is emulated by floating transistors. | ||
+ | 4. I initially designed the whole schematics and board with an ATmega328p and a nrf24l01+ 2.4GHz transceiver to connect to a [[http:// | ||
+ | * Schematics: {{ : | ||
+ | * Board (NOT tested, routing also not optimized): {{ : | ||
+ | * MySensors arduino sketch: {{ : | ||
+ | * Pictures: {{: | ||
+ | (In the last picture one can see the error LED dimly lit, which is caused by the use of a voltage divider rather than the LM339/393 comparator...) |
hardware/venta_connected.txt · Zuletzt geändert: 2018/10/28 19:37 von reinhold